Retrofitting in the Canadian Rockies
The fixed gear, tools, and tactics we use in our mountains
2026
The Stoke Scale
It’s like the Fun Scale, but for Stoke
Addiction M7+ WI5 150m
I don’t have a problem, you do!
2025
The Real Small Drip - M9+ WI3+ 185m
Size isn’t everything
Bolt Sizes for Crampon & Ice Tools
Why don’t manufacturers publish this information?
Freak Off - 5.11b 170m
Going off-route on Freak Out, in the name of prows and chimneys
No fiesta, no siesta - 5.8 1200m TD-
It’s what you get when you mix a chossy alpine ridge with a Ford that has rainbow lights, but no drive belt
Devils Head Northeast Corner - 5.10-, 195m
Tugging the Devil’s tail
Iron Tears - 5.11- 465m TD-
When it rains, the Rimwall cries tears of iron
Confessions of a Choss Gobbler - 5.11- A0 440m TD
My confession is that I do not know why I like to gobble choss.
Embrace the stacked rappel
Stacked rappels help mitigate two of the most common rappeling errors.
Respond to accidents with compassion
We don’t have a right to learn from other people’s misfortune.
2024
Ice Climbing Responsibility Code
Basic rules to have a good time climbing in the Rockies
You Shouldn’t Be Falling on Your Tethers (Or Should You?)
Although it’s a leashless world, ice tool tethers still have a place. Learn how some of the best are adapting these basic tools to some off-label uses.
Ice Tools for Small Hands
Adapting your favorite tool for your hand size
Winter Training - Hang lots, pull hard, stay limber
A simple regimen that only takes three or four hours a week
Snafflehound Spine - 5.10+, TD+
Wherein our dreams are nearly crushed by a rodent
Rasputin Roof - M9, 50m
Another one for the “I can’t believe this hasn’t been climbed already” collection