Non-climbing knots that climbers should know
Setting up a hammock? Securing a tarp? Not everything needs to be a bowline, a clove hitch, or an overhand.
2026
Slipstream
Alpine climbing is always an adventure, you just never know which part.
Partner first, or objective first? What’s your orientation?
A chronic objective-first-er preaches about the partner-first way
Retrofitting in the Canadian Rockies
The fixed gear, tools, and tactics we use in our mountains
The Stoke Scale
It’s like the Fun Scale, but for Stoke
Addiction M7+ WI5 150m
I don’t have a problem, you do!
2025
The Real Small Drip - M9+ WI3+ 185m
Size isn’t everything
Bolt Sizes for Crampon & Ice Tools
Why don’t manufacturers publish this information?
Freak Off - 5.11b 170m
Going off-route on Freak Out, in the name of prows and chimneys
No fiesta, no siesta - 5.8 1200m TD-
It’s what you get when you mix a chossy alpine ridge with a Ford that has rainbow lights, but no drive belt
Devils Head Northeast Corner - 5.10-, 195m
Tugging the Devil’s tail
Iron Tears - 5.11- 465m TD-
When it rains, the Rimwall cries tears of iron
Confessions of a Choss Gobbler - 5.11- A0 440m TD
My confession is that I do not know why I like to gobble choss.
Embrace the stacked rappel
Stacked rappels help mitigate two of the most common rappeling errors.
Respond to accidents with compassion
We don’t have a right to learn from other people’s misfortune.
2024
Ice Climbing Responsibility Code
Basic rules to have a good time climbing in the Rockies
You Shouldn’t Be Falling on Your Tethers (Or Should You?)
Although it’s a leashless world, ice tool tethers still have a place. Learn how some of the best are adapting these basic tools to some off-label uses.
Ice Tools for Small Hands
Adapting your favorite tool for your hand size
Winter Training - Hang lots, pull hard, stay limber
A simple regimen that only takes three or four hours a week
Snafflehound Spine - 5.10+, TD+
Wherein our dreams are nearly crushed by a rodent
Rasputin Roof - M9, 50m
Another one for the “I can’t believe this hasn’t been climbed already” collection