As the seasons transition in the Rockies, everyone seems to shift their Stoke toward summer at their own pace. Some people sport climbing sunny south-aspect walls, others move high-and-north to keep ice alive. It’s a perk of living here, really. Our ‘shoulder season’ is a ‘choose your own season’, season. If you head west to the Columbia Valley, you can jump ahead a full month anytime you want.

The Fun Scale

You may have heard of the ‘Fun Scale’, enumerating three types of fun. Concisely, these refer to:

  • Type 1 Fun - Fun the whole time. A day at the crag.
  • Type 2 Fun - Not fun in the moment, but fun in retrospect. A day working hard in the alpine.
  • Type 3 Fun - Not fun at all. A horrendous scree bash to a whiteout summit. An expedition where you froze and never left base camp.

Kelly Cordes seems to be the first person to have properly documented this scale, here: The Fun Scale

Yours truly, stoke-drunk in the middle of the Rundle Traverse.

The Stoke Scale

I’d like to propose a Stoke Scale, which in many ways mirrors the Fun Scale.

  • Type 1 Stoke - You’re stoked to do it, and you enjoy yourself once you’re out.
  • Type 2 Stoke - You’re hesitant to sign up for it. It’s not your first choice. Your heart is elsewhere. But once you’re out, you enjoy yourself.
  • Type 3 Stoke - You don’t want to sign up for it and you don’t enjoy yourself while you’re doing it. That doesn’t mean it’s necessarily suffering or dangerous, you just don’t get fired up by the activity.

This scale can describe your relationship with any activity, but part of its utility comes in communicating these seasonal transitions. In mid winter, you might be Type 1 Stoked on ice climbing. But now that rock is an option, your ice-stoke is more Type 2. You’ll still have a good time if you go out, but you’d rather sign up to rock climb. Rock is now Type 1. You’re still not stoked for dry tooling, which was Type 3 for you the whole time.

Adam Mertens on the first summit of a 146 kilometres and 11,181 metres, 3 day epic. Type 1 Stoke for both of us, Type 1 Fun for me (I joined for only Cascade), almost certainly Type 2 Fun for him.

An interesting dynamic here is the social shuffling that happens with these Stoke transitions. Intense mountain folk often seem to choose their activity first and their partner second. We spend our time in little cliques of Type 1 Stoke folks, for our current Type 1 activity. And sometimes that means your best friends are seasonal. Some people find this disquieting, but I think it’s more about living your truth.

For me, shared experiences in the mountains create a bond that stands the test of time, and those relationships pick right back up right where they left off when our Stoke re-aligns.

Gabs on the FA of Iron Tears on the Rimwall, never one to be short on stoke.
Sometimes stoke bears an odd resemblence to a barbershop quartet. Riptide, with Chris Petrauskas and Nick Baggaley.
You don’t have to be high off the ground for stoke. Christine Song and I having a delightful day in King Creek.
Alex Popov and I on the summit of Mount Bell. Type 1 Fun on the way up, Type 2 Fun on the way down, Type 1 Stoke the whole time.
Charles Kalinsky and I kickin’ it on top of Bugaboo Spire
Stoke doesn’t always look cool, but it does always feel good. Topping out another Kallen 34 route on Yamnuska with Nick Baggaley.
Gavin McNamara on Nightmare on Wolf Street. Surprisingly stoked for someone who’s tolerating me jugging around with a camera, trying to direct him, while he’s working hard to send.

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