After an incomplete ascent of Leftover Rib, Nic Houser and I decided to return to check out the rib between it and the Gran route. We found rock similar in character to the rest of the mountain, punctuated by some great ~5.10 climbing.
The route name comes from Nic being assaulted by a packrat during our first bivy. Before he was able to vanquish it, it escaped with his helmet. We found it in the morning, 100m down the face with most of the straps chewed through and the padding gone. Using a piton as a screwdriver, a glove as a pad, some tape, and a lot of ingenuity, he was able to reassemble it into serviceable shape.
We ended up merging with the crux of the Gran by accident, and decided to just take it to the top instead of potentially bivying on the face again. As it stands, this could be considered a variation to the Gran, but it has a lot of solid climbing of its own, so I thought we’d write it up. We have plans to return and put together some off route climbing we did previously into an independent finish.
Snafflehound Spine
Mount Chephren
5.10+, TD+
Nic Houser, Greg Barrett
August 4-6, 2024
Approach
Start as for Leftover Rib or the Gran until the height where the face splits into three ribs. Optionally bivy on ledges below the Gran, where there is likely to be a seep for water.
Climbing Climb varied terrain to the left of the center rib until on a large ledge system, confronted with a steep black wall. Move left around a corner to find a weakness where stepped roofs lead to a thin crack (~5.10) (Seep to the left for water). Climb this and continue to another major ledge system. Move back right and climb a right trending weakness in another steep wall. Continue up looser rock until below a very steep wall with many roofs. Climb blocky corners, aiming for a weakness above and left of the major roofs (great climbing, ~5.10). Continue on much looser rock and pillars to the next ledge system. Head right around a corner to join the Gran on its crux pitch.
